Jewellery worn every day meets water, soap, sweat, cosmetics, knocks, dust and heat. Some stones shrug all of it off. Others are worn away by it. Knowing which is which — and what a treated stone needs — keeps a piece looking as it did when it was bought, and keeps the setting from losing its stone.
Hardness and toughness together
Two properties decide daily-wear suitability. Hardness (resistance to scratching): stones below 7 are scratched by dust and by contact with harder things; below 5 they show wear quickly. Toughness (resistance to breaking): brittle stones chip at corners regardless of hardness. Mohs hardness and the scratch test.
| Suitability | Stones |
|---|---|
| Excellent for daily wear | Diamond, ruby, sapphire, spinel, chrysoberyl (including cat's eye), jadeite, nephrite |
| Good with care | Garnet, tourmaline, quartz varieties (amethyst, citrine, agate, tiger's eye), zircon, aquamarine, topaz, peridot |
| Occasional wear, protected settings | Emerald (brittle), tanzanite, opal, moonstone, iolite, kunzite, turquoise, lapis, malachite |
| Not for daily rings | Pearl, coral, amber, jet, shell, fluorite, selenite |
Rings take the most punishment; pendants and earrings the least. A stone marginal for a ring may be fine as a pendant.
Treated stones need more care
Glass-filled ruby — no ultrasonic, no steam, no jeweller's heat, no acids (including lemon juice); the glass etches and can leave the fractures. Glass-filled ruby.
Oiled or resin-filled emerald — no ultrasonic, no solvents, no heat; oil can be leached and the fissures reappear. Emerald oiling and resin filling.
Fracture-filled diamond — no heat, no ultrasonic.
Dyed stones — colour can fade with sweat, sun and solvents.
Stabilised turquoise, coated stones — solvents and abrasion attack the surface.
A laboratory report that names the treatment tells you which of these applies. That is one of its practical uses.
Everyday hazards
Water and soap. Fine for hard, untreated stones; bad for pearls, opal, treated stones and Rudraksha. Take rings off to wash, swim and bathe.
Cosmetics, perfume, hairspray. Put on before jewellery, allow to dry. Acids and solvents attack organics and treated stones and dull everything.
Housework and gardening. Knocks, abrasion, detergents. Remove rings.
Sleep. Rings and bracelets catch and twist; pearls absorb night sweat. Remove.
Sport and gym. Knocks and sweat. Remove.
Chlorine and salt water. Attack metal settings and some stones. Remove before swimming.
Cleaning
Hard untreated stones (diamond, corundum, spinel, quartz): warm water, a drop of mild dish soap, a soft brush, rinse, dry. Ultrasonic cleaning is fine for these if the setting is sound and the stone is untreated and not heavily included.
Everything else: soft cloth, lukewarm water with mild soap if needed, dried immediately. No ultrasonic, no steam, no jewellery dips.
Organics: cloth only. Organic gems are soft.
The setting
Prongs wear and bend; channels loosen; glue (in cheap settings) fails. Have a worn ring checked by a jeweller yearly: a lost stone is far more expensive than a re-tipped prong. Check yourself by tapping the piece near your ear — a rattle means a loose stone.
Frequently asked questions
Can I wear my sapphire ring every day?
Yes. Sapphire is among the most durable gems. Clean it periodically and have the setting checked yearly.
Can I wear my emerald ring every day?
With care — emerald chips at corners and its filling dislikes heat and solvents. A protective setting and removing it for housework, sport and washing help.
Is ultrasonic cleaning safe?
For hard, untreated, lightly included stones in sound settings, yes. For everything else, no. When unsure, do not.
Why has my stone gone dull?
Surface scratches (soft stone), residue (cosmetics and soap in the pavilion), or damage to a coating or filling. A jeweller can assess; some can be polished, some cannot.
Does a laboratory report say how to care for the stone?
A good report names treatments, which determine care. Some reports add a care note; this guide supplies the rest.